Position:

Remove the decal and its wax protective backing paper from the plastic envelope.  Separate the wax backing paper from the decal.  You will note that the decal is printed facedown on a clear transparency film with the back exposed.  You will transfer the image from the transparency film to the helmet.  Once accomplished, the face-side of the decal will be exposed.  Position the decal on the side of the helmet directly under the ventilation lug or hole.  Official regulations called for a three-mm space between the top of the decal and the bottom of the vent.  The midline of the decal should pass through the center of the vent opening and it should be vertical in relation to the lower rim of the helmet.  Once positioned, use a small piece of masking or artist’s tape to hold each corner of the decal film in place.  The tape should be the kind that is easily removable. NO TRIMMING IS NECESSARY!

 Transfer:

Use an ice cream stick (or a similar blunt-ended object) to slowly transfer the decal to the helmet surface.  You will not need to use heavy pressure to transfer the decal, however you will need to apply moderate pressure to move the image from the film to the helmet.  Start at one end of the transfer film and work your way across the decal evenly.  Do not use excessive pressure and do not allow the transfer film to shift.  Use only enough pressure to get the transfer onto the helmet.  Once applied, slowly remove the plastic cover sheet from the decal.  Your decal is now ready to be smoothed and burnished.

Smooth:

Use a cotton swab or other soft instrument to smooth out any wrinkles.  Position the wax backing paper over the decal and gently rub from one end of the decal to the other.  Do not allow the backing paper to move around.  Use a pin to prick any air bubbles or pockets under the decal should they occur.  In about 90% of the applications you will not need to smooth anything out as the decal transfers quite nicely from the transparency film to the helmet without air pockets or bubbles.

Burnish:

You are now ready to set the adhesive in the decal.  The adhesive is within the printed layers and ink of the decal as well as on the backside that was applied when you transferred the decal to the helmet.  To burnish the decal, lay the wax backing paper over the decal and burnish to set the adhesive.  You may want to use masking tape to hold the wax paper down on the decal to make the job easier.  Burnishing can be done with an ice cream stick or a commercial burnisher available at craft and art supply stores.  Burnishing is accomplished by rubbing with moderate and even pressure the entire decal image with the wax paper covering the decal to protect it.  The heat generated from the rubbing causes the adhesive to set.  Do not use excessive pressure to burnish the decal as it is not necessary to set the adhesive and you may scrape or damage the decal.

Do Not Bake These Decals On Your Helmet!  This is NOT Necessary!

Lacquer or Varnish Coat:

Like some original decals, you may choose to apply a thin layer of flat varnish or gloss lacquer over the decal to protect it.  Because some lacquers can melt various types of decals when applied with a brush, it is recommended that you spray the lacquer onto the decal after masking around the decal image.  Varnishes can typically be hand applied with a brush.  The protective overcoat will help prevent your decal from scratching and will seal the surface to the helmet.  Allow several days for the protective layer to dry. 

Recommended applications: Other similar products can be found at hobby, craft, and artist supply stores.

Testors brand clear gloss or matt lacquer:  If you use this product be sure to mask and spray the lacquer over the decal as opposed to brushing it on.  This lacquer is very caustic and will cause many types of decals to melt as the lacquer hardens (including water-slide decals).  Spraying has a much better effect and will not damage the decal image.  Allow at least 48 hours for the lacquer to fully set and harden.  Other hobby lacquers are available in many different varieties including gloss, flat, and semi-gloss finishes.

Dammar Varnish:  The same kind of varnish used during the war years, this specially formulated varnish comes in matt and gloss coats.  Varnish will not destroy the decal and you can spray or brush it on.  Dammar varnish is available at art and craft supply stores.  Allow several days for the varnish to harden.  You may want to apply several layers of varnish to the decal to increases the protective layer.  Over time, varnish becomes very hard.  There are many different types of varnish available in spray and brush-on formats.

Polyurethane Finishes:  The same kind as used on boats and wood restoration, this finish will not destroy a decal and will also harden over time.  This type is available in sprays and brush-on formats in gloss and semi-gloss finishes.  Allow 48 hours to harden.

Acrylic Clear Coat Finishes:  These finishes usually work the best as they harden nicely and do not damage the decal through caustic chemical reaction.  Many brands are sold at hobby stores.  All seem to work quite well.

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